Friday, August 18, 2017
Then the waitress brought over some snacks and I sat there for awhile, resting and munching and playing on my phone. All of a sudden I noticed it had gotten very dark outside. Too early for night time, I looked up and saw a flash of light and then heard that unmistakable sound of thunder. Oh crap. I don't like thunder and lightning. It scared the bejeezus out of me.
I made a beeline for my room, flew into the bed, grabbed Snort from my backpack and curled up and whimpered. Yep. Bad ass, super confident, nothing worries me Sherita, curled up in bed with her stuffed piggy crying like a baby. Sheesh. And here's the thing, this bloody storm went on for HOURS!!! It was not a passing thing. It moved in over the city and stayed there. And I was on the top floor of my hotel building with a big balcony. It was pouring down rain. At one point, a flash of lightning so bright hit very close and the thunder cracked at the same time and the walls shook, I swear. And car alarms started going off in the street below. I was sure I was a goner.
But I survived. I wanted to take a shower to wash the day's dirt and sweat off me but they say you shouldn't do that during one of these storms. I was texting with Jimmy in between my sobbing bouts and he told me. Of course, I didn't completely believe him so I googled it and sure enough - not recommended. A few hours later when the storm was a bit quieter I took a chance and opted for a quick hot shower. Clearly I survived. Ha!
Needless to say I stayed in that night. In fact, I never even had dinner - the two Cokes and snacks and storm-induced primal fear were more than enough to tide me over until the morning buffet.
Next morning was checkout time and transfer to the riverboat. The Tauck hotel was a few blocks away from mine so after checking out I walked to the other hotel, checked in with the Tauck rep and left my bags with them to be loaded onto the bus later.
I had until 2:30 to amuse myself. It was still sprinkling a bit outside but not enough to be a bother and the temperature was blissfully cool today so I went off to do some more touring. It was on that walk that I came across the statue of a man and his dog. I included that picture in my last post. It was a statue of Peter Falk, in his famous TV role as the rumpled detective Columbo, along with his trusted Bassett Hound.
It just seemed so random to come across a statue of an American television character just positioned on a quiet street corner. The street's name is Falk Miksa so there is some speculation that perhaps there is a family link but no one knows for sure and since Peter Falk has passed away we will never really know. Coming across this bronze statue made me so happy though. Peter Falk was probably my favorite actor and I even got to meet him briefly about 25 years ago, at a mall in Santa Monica, California. And we shared the same birth day and month. So there.
After my walk I returned to the hotel and soon enough we were boarding the coach and being whisked away to the river's edge and embarking on the Esprit.
With only ocean cruises and bigger ships as my frame of reference, I was a bit surprised at how small the ocean boat is on the inside even though it looked really big from the outside. Kind of weird, I know. Small but efficient. Everything is very pretty with a beautiful marble tiled entry floor (and dangerously slippery when your shoes are the slightest bit damp on the bottom), the main lounge where the bar, piano player and daily briefings are located is pretty and bright with lots of seating and small tables.
There are less than 100 passengers on board - the ship capacity is only 112. There are 3 passenger cabin decks. Mine was on deck 1 which is the lowest deck. No floor to ceiling windows or Juliet balconies down here partially below water level, but two nice windows for my viewing pleasure as long as I was standing up. The room was actually bigger than I expected but it's still quite small compared to an ocean ship's cabin. Small, but very well laid out and comfortable. Plenty of closet space, and the cabin also has a small fridge and a safe. A nice size flat screen TV is on the wall directly across from the bed. There's a Bow camera channel which I kept on a lot - it made me feel like I had a better overall view from my cabin.
My luggage was on the bed waiting for me to unpack, and after settling in we all gathered upstairs in the lounge for a get acquainted cocktail reception and our first daily briefing. After that, some exploring of the ship, a little rest, getting to know some passengers and then it was dinner time. We were overnighting here in Budapest so after dinner, when it was dark, I went out for a long walk along the river side. I wanted to see if I could get some decent shots of this pretty city at night. And a bonus was that it was a full moon!! With a better camera I probably could have taken some great photos but my trusty iPhone does an okay job for now.
My Fitbit told me I had walked 9.2 miles today. I slept well......
Thursday, August 17, 2017
Well, time to say adieu to Edinburgh and catch a plane to Budapest, Hungary. I've never been to Hungary, and was really looking forward to my visit.
Boarding the river boat on Monday afternoon, my plan was to arrive in Budapest on Saturday afternoon, settle in to the hotel, do a little walking about and then find a nice place for dinner. The plan for Sunday was to take a hop on hop off bus tour and visit some of the popular sites around the city. The cruise had a tour planned for us on Tuesday morning, so I intended to skip the places we were to tour then and concentrate on other highlights Sunday.
My plan mostly worked. While I arrived in Budapest, my luggage did not! I ate up more than an hour of my afternoon standing in line waiting to file a lost luggage report. I couldn't go outside to let the Tauck rep know what was happening so of course I worried and fretted about that the whole time.
Report filed, and assured that my suitcase would be found and delivered to my hotel within 24 hours, I exited the baggage claim area and found that my Tauck rep was still there waiting. Score an A+ for them!
By the time I got to the hotel and checked in, it was early evening and I was hot, sweaty and tired. It was in the high 90's outside. Without much of a change of clothing available, I opted to order room service and call it a night.
At 1:30 AM the front desk called me and said my luggage was here and did I want them to bring it up? I said yes of course, put on a robe and waited for the bellman to bring it. When he arrived with it he said something to me in Hungarian and pointed to the zippers on my bag. My lock was gone, replaced by a zip tie. He had a pair of scissors and indicated to me that he'd be happy to cut the zip tie off. Considering that was the only way I was going to be able to open my suitcase I said "yes please".
By that time I was quite awake, so I opened it up to see if I could figure out why my lock had been taken off. My whole bag had been rifled through. Very upsetting. However, everything seemed to be there, just massively rearranged. I sighed and decided to go back to bed and deal with it in the morning.
Sunday morning dawned and I awoke feeling rested, even with the middle of the night interruption. I dressed for the day, went to the included breakfast buffet downstairs, purchased my ticket for the hop on bus and headed out.
I will say that doing the hop on bus is a really good way to acclimate yourself in a new city. First of all, you get a cool map with the city and the sights highlighted and the routes that the bus takes. They also have audio headsets that are available in a bunch of different languages which makes it easy to sit and listen while looking out at the city. Everyone is quiet!! The audio guide is very good at explaining the upcoming stop and why it is important, etc.
I mapped out my plan at which stops I'd get off, what places I wanted to see, and I have to say, it worked out perfectly. The only lousy thing about the day was that it was almost 100 degrees. Soooo hot and muggy too. It didn't stop me from going and doing but it did make me tired and cranky. This is when it's good to be a solo traveler because no one has to put up with my crankiness. Haha!
I visited the Citadel with the Liberty statue, which commemorates those who lost their lives for freedom. It's on top of a tall hill on the Buda side and afforded fantastic views of the city and the Danube.
I found the Buda side to be prettier and seemingly more relaxed. Lots of cafes, green hills and quieter traffic. The Castle is also on the Buda side.
Separated by the Danube, the Pest side of Budapest is laid out in a logical grid but it is fast paced, heavy with cars and trams and buses and feels more like a busy and noisy city. The Parliament is located on this side, sitting right alongside the river, and you will also find Heroes Square, St. Stephens Cathedral, the Terror Museum, the Great Synagogue (2nd largest in the world), and the pedestrian shopping street and markets. And gobs of hotels and restaurants.
I visited all of these places and enjoyed each of them. The architecture of the buildings and the history of this city was wonderful to explore and learn about. Budapest is a very picturesque city and I'd highly recommend it. The only negative is that I didn't find the people to be all that friendly. No one seems to smile much. I would pass people in the street while walking and make eye contact and smile and they'd just completely ignore me. I'd speak to someone and ask if they spoke English and they'd answer "yes" but then would answer with a scowl. One young woman taking our tour tickets inside the Parliament Building kept rolling her eyes at everyone as they passed through her to have their ticket scanned. "Welcome to Hungary now go home" she seemed to want to say. Yikes! I wanted to stick out my tongue at her but I was worried she might not let me in, so my manners won out and I behaved.
Just outside the (gorgeous inside and out) Parliament Building (snotty ticket taker notwithstanding) is a memorial to the Jews of this city who were marched to the riverbank here, told to remove their shoes and then shot, their bodies then pushed into the river, during WW2. There used to be a very large Jewish population in Budapest, but the war changed all of that, decimating the population. The memorial represents their shoes left behind on the riverbank. It is both beautiful and heartbreaking, as you might imagine.
Tuesday, August 15, 2017
Last day in Edinburgh and the big evening I've been waiting for. Not only the big evening but the whole point of my side trip here.
The Military Tattoo. Held annually for three weeks in August, the never-cancelled 6 days a week performances have been taking place here as part of the Edinburgh Festival since 1950. Why, that's older than moi! There are lots of Tattoo performances around the world but it's the Edinburgh one that is the most well-known.
Per Wikipedia, "A tattoo is a military performance of music or display of armed forces in general. The term comes from the early 17th century Dutch phrase doe den tap toe("turn off the tap"), a signal sounded by drummers or trumpeters to instruct innkeepers near military garrisons to stop serving beer and for soldiers to return to their barracks."
The morning dawned cloudy and threatening rain. Of course it was. As I said before, Tattoo is never cancelled. The seating is all outdoors. It's like going to a football game with the playing field in cement. Well, no matter. I have a poncho now, so there!
After a nice breakfast I headed out. My goal was to spend the morning at the National Museum and then a stop off at a few more of hop on hop off bus stops. The museum was featuring a special exhibit about Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites. If you're a reader or follower of the Outlander series, you'll be quite familiar with the outcome of his attempts to regain the crown of England of which he believed himself to be the rightful heir.
It was a really great exhibit and I found that I had gotten lost in it for well over an hour. No photography was allowed, which was too bad as there's no way I could remember everything I read and saw.
After the museum I waited for the next bus to come along and then I stopped off at just one more place - Greyfriars Bobby. Bobby was a young dog who belonged to a John Gray, who was a constable in Edinburgh. The dog was always by John's side. When John died unexpectedly, Bobby was just 2 years old. The day they buried John Gray, after the funeral service was over, Bobby went and laid down on top of his master's grave. And there he stayed for the next 13 years, until his own death at the age of 15. The town buried Bobby a few yards away from his master, an unusual thing to do in a cemetery that was meant for people. A finer companion there never was.
Not much could top that, it was lunch time, I was hungry, so I went to find something good to eat and then went back to the B&B. I wanted to rest awhile in preparation for a long evening at the Tattoo.
I had bought a ticket months ago online and even that long ago, the only ticket available to me for opening night was what they called a Piper Package. It included a nice dinner before the show, and then a piper would lead us up the path to the castle grounds and to our seats.
Boy, was it ever worth it. The dinner was very nice. Roasted chicken and vegetables, a fruit custard for dessert and the wine flowed.
All too soon dinner was over and we made our way to the front doors of the restaurant, which was at the bottom of the castle hill. Magically, a magnificent specimen of a bagpiper appeared in the doorway and began to play his pipes. OH YEAH!!! He was kind enough to stand outside and allow about 30 of us to pose for pictures with him. Yes, me included. Yay!
Then, he turned and started walking up the hill towards the castle, still playing his pipes, us trailing behind him. What an amazing treat and start to the evening!!
After we were seated, a little time elapsed and then the show started. From beginning to end it was wonderful. We had some good rain in the early part of the show, but people just pulled out their ponchos - me included - and the show kept going. The evening cost me about $150 but it was so worth it! We even had fireworks at the end!
I went home happy. Tomorrow, airport and then my flight to Budapest to begin the second part of my European journey.