Thursday, February 13, 2020

Just Around The Horn

Travel Quote:  "Adventure is worthwhile in itself."  -- Amelia Earhart

Part of the adventure in visiting Antarctica, if one is on a South American cruise, is, at some point, sailing around Cape Horn.  This famous landmark is a small island called Hornos Island, located at the bottom of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, in southern Chile.  

Being at the top boundary of the Drake Passage, passage around the Horn can be difficult and dangerous because of high winds, strong currents and large waves.  It was first named Kaap Hoorn by a Dutchman named Willem Schouten.  He named it after a city called Hoorn in the Netherlands.  Until the Panama Canal opened in 1914, ships transiting across the world for trade, etc. had to pass this way.  

On the island is a lighthouse, with a keeper and his family, and also a monument to those sailors who have perished in these nearby waters. The monument is an albatross, built to withstand 120 mph winds and was erected in 1992.





Last year, when we were here on the Prinsendam, we sent a tender out to the island and the Chilean officials there stamped each of our passports with the Cape Horn official stamp.  No such thing happened this year with our current ship.  I'm not likely to ever get a chance to receive this stamp again, so I'm grateful I had the opportunity last year.

Above is the picture of the monument.  Below, Cape Horn.  There are a few pictures, in fact.



While this photo, below, is not near Cape Horn, I felt the need to include it here, because it was the last big iceberg we passed on our way to the Cape, further south in the Drake Passage, the day before.  Our ship would look very small next to this behemoth berg.

The weather on the morning when we passed the Cape.


The sun was beginning to tease us with small peeks of light.





We sailed around the horn, so the picture below is from another side, and a bit later in the morning, when the sun was (mostly) out.



Lots of birds followed the ship.


After passing the horn, we sailed on towards Ushuaia, which is part of Argentina.  While nearby Port Williams, of Chile, is the southernmost "town" in the world, Ushuaia boasts that it is the southernmost "city" in the world.  Either way, we were at the southern end of Tierra del Fuego, in the archipelago.

Later in the afternoon, we arrived and docked in Ushuaia, for an overnight stay.  It was still very light out when dinner was over, so since the following day was to be a short one (leaving at 1:30), I decided to go out this evening and walk the town.  This was my 4th visit to Ushuaia, and I'd been out to the National Park, boated on the Beagle Channel, and hiked around the shores and lakes that can be found out of town.  Below are pictures of some of the town.



These 3 black dogs, above, were creating a bit of a ruckus in the street, and traffic had to wait for them to decide which direction they wanted to go.  As in most of South America, stray dogs roam the streets of the city.  They are well fed and generally friendly; locals often put out food and water for the dogs.  Some belong to people, but during the day the dogs go out and hang with their "buds".




Sunset views off the dock.  The port/dock was bustling and busy with a large ship offloading frozen fish.  It was smelly and loud.


Yes, there is  Hard Rock Cafe in Ushuaia.  It looked pretty new.  Not sure how long it's been there.



Perched on the edge of Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is surrounded by mountains and it's really a beautiful little city.  It started out as a penal colony in the middle of the 20th century, where many of Argentina's hardened criminals were sent.  They actually built the prison themselves.  After the financial crash in 2002, the government started incentivizing people to settle here by offering them a tax-free society and high wages for workers.  Tourism increased since then, as well, as this is a hopping off point for travelers to Antarctica.  It worked.  The city's population has more than doubled since I first visited here in 2003.



Meat.  Well, after all, it's Argentina.  




Slightly off topic, someone on the ship painted this cartoon.  Isn't it the cutest???



The streets are hilly in Ushuaia.



View from the ship after I returned, of the city.


This is a new memorial.  It, too, is an albatross, whose wings encircle scenes that depict the sides of life here by the indigenous people and later settlers.













After we left Ushuaia, we had some very scenic sailing through "glacier alley".  Here's some shots.











One of my favorite entertainers, Ruben Vilagrand, is an interesting illusionist and visual artist from Spain.  I've seen him probably 4 or 5 times now, and enjoy trying to figure out some of his tricks/illusions during his act.  I know what to look for now.  Anyway, at the end of his shows, he does a few minutes of shadow puppets and he's really good!




It's a long long way to Tipperary..............have I mentioned this before????  My cabin is waaaay down at the far end of this corridor.





Stay tuned for more Pig Tales!!!

Wednesday, February 5, 2020

A 2020 Antarctica

Travel quote:  "Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you'd drop dead in ten seconds.  See the world.  It's more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories."  -- Ray Bradbury


Our journey through the Drake Passage down to the "frozen continent" was smooth and uneventful.  That is not always the case - the passage is well known for unstable weather, high rolling seas, and general marine mayhem.  I've sailed the passage round trip three times now and most times it's been okay.  

We were to spend 4 days cruising around the Antarctic Peninsula, meandering through channels and bays and even touching up against the mainland.  But Mama Nature had other things in mind, and not all of our itinerary went according to plan.  It was cold (well, duh, it's always cold here), windy (yep, windiest place on earth) and overcast.  The Coronavirus from China even got in the way - the Palmer Station (U.S. summer research station on the Peninsula) cancelled their call to our ship to be on the safe side - it is very remote here and wouldn't do well to get a virus that could potentially infect everyone at the station.

Ice prevented us from channeling into some of the smaller bays and inlets - and fog on the morning of day 4 completely wiped out any plans for crusing that day - so we left early and made a slow sail for Cape Horn.  

There were wonderful opportunities for photographs in spite of some of the weather-related problems and we did see a bit of sun from time to time - also whales, penguins, seals and birds.  Below is a selection of my favorites from the time we spent there.  

To be honest, I didn't label the photos as to exactly where we were - but we visited Deception Island, Admiralty Bay, Paradise Bay, Gerlache Strait, Errera Channel, Anvers Island (where Palmer Station is located), King George Island (part of the South Shetlands) and others.  We passed several research stations, among them Chile, Brazil (brand new), Ecuador, Poland, and I think also, Peru.  

We passed glaciers, ice forms:
 - icebergs are the big ones, at least 16 feet above sea level
 - bergy bits, which are between 3 and 8 feet above sea level
 - growlers, less than 3 feet in height
 - brash ice, which are little pieces that crackle when they melt in the sea water (I took a short video of these, and the crackling sound was much louder than I thought.  Trying to upload a video, however, takes forever using satellite internet, so I didn't include it)

A very different trip than last year - but still an incredible opportunity to visit this massively fantastic place at the bottom of the world.



See that brownish green stuff on the left side of the rock?  It's ice algae.  Signs of a healthy ecosystem.  That metal tower acts like a lighthouse for ships in the channel.



The glaciers in Antarctica are different from the glaciers in more temperate climate zones - think Alaska - they are not confined to valleys but are so deep and massive that they completely take over the land and cover mountain ranges.  They make up a "massive shroud of ice" called an ice sheet.  The Antarctic Ice Sheet dwarfs all other ice sheets on earth.  The sheet covers Antarctica up to a depth of over 15,000 feet.  It's so heavy it smashes the land underneath.  When the glaciers meet the sea water, big pieces fall off and that's what makes the icebergs.  





I loved seeing the bergs and bergy bits from a top deck on the ship, as you can see the beautiful blue hues below it.  You can also see how much of the bergs are below the water line.





Above is the brand spankin' new Brazil station, built by the Chinese (but of course).  It just opened in early January.  



Up close and personal with what I call striated ice walls.


"I shall call it"  Spectacle Berg.  This is known as a tabular iceberg.  It's HUGE.


Look!!  Some blue sky!!!



I'm pretty sure that bird is an albatross.  They soar and are so beautiful to watch.
Their wingspans are about 11 feet.


Part of the Chilean station.  It's also a penguin rookery.  Humans and penguins can co-exist quite well, if you can stand the smell.............



This photo, above, demonstrates what kind of eerie pictures one can take from one's filthy dirty cabin windows....That is a small research ship in the middle of the frame.




There are the small little snap crackle and pop brash ice bits.




The other side of the Chilean station. If you look carefully, you can see the little pengies along the land.





A humpback moseying along.




Ever in mind to generate revenue, the ship sent out a tender one morning to photograph the ship.  Pictures later were printed and for sale in the photo shop.  Imagine that.



Yes, there are parts of Antarctica without snow....at least in summer.



This California girl found the 33 degree temps and heavy winds to be a bit on the COLD side.....But check out my smile.  My hands were freezing.  I had gloves in my pocket but had taken them off to take some pictures.


That fluffy round thing in the photo above is an ice berg.  That's at least a mile away....







I'm far from a professional photographer, one could argue I'm far from an amateur one too, but I tried to get this photo to demonstrate how tall bergs and mountains are compared to our ship.




Stay tuned for more Pig Tales!!

Flat Stanley, No Stanley

Travel quote:  "Traveling tends to magnify all human emotions."  - Peter Hoeg


The Falkland Islands are a two day journey for our ship from the mainland of South America; Uruguay specifically.  It is one of those ports, because of its location and it’s weather, that is often missed or a visit cut short, due in large part to heavy winds and large ocean swells. And rain. And cold. And did I mention the winds?


This morning we experienced all three - and as a result, our attempt at being able to make a full stop here was aborted pretty early on.  Another ship, the Celebrity Eclipse, was already in the harbor, anchored, and had sent about 200 passengers to shore.  When we sent our tender to the marina dock, it was difficult to tie up.  The harbor master deemed the waves too high, water breaking over our tender dock, and unsafe.  Our tender returned, and the captain made the disappointing news that we would not be staying.  

For me, this 4th visit, I was not too upset.  But for many others on the ship, this was either their first time here, or their second and even third time and still not able to go ashore.  Stanley is one of those ports where it's very common to not be able to get ashore.  I've been very lucky. All three prior visits I've landed and had a fabulous time - seeing penguins, walking the streets of the small town, enjoying the views.  To those who have missed seeing Stanley and the Falklands, I'm so sorry.  I understand the disappointment, but keep trying.  It's worth it! 


Bouncy tender in the water




The Celebrity Eclipse as we passed her on our way back out to sea.  She had to stay awhile in order to gather her 200 passengers already on shore, as the harbor master also cancelled their call.  



This was what the sea looked like the night before Stanley.  And we wonder why we couldn't go ashore.




Nothing like a hot cafe mocha to warm your heart.  


Snort and Ollie hung out by the window all day.  Lazy boys.



Stay tuned for more Pig Tales!!!

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